Picking the Right Pair of Shoes

Nothing is worse than your feet hurting.  What I have found is that I have aged, is that I really don't need to impress anyone by wearing sky high heels.  After 3 foot surgeries, I've completely changes my collection of shoes.  Now, keep in mind at the height of my collection, I had close to 50 pairs in almost every color you could imagine.  Nowadays, comfort is important!

Here are some hints for buying the right shoe:

From Discovery Fit & Health:
by Michael King, DPM

How to Buy the Right Shoes

 

Believe it or not, one person can have two feet that are slightly different in size and shape. And even if yours seem identically matched, they don't necessarily remain a constant size. Your feet can actually be different sizes at different times of the day. There are also more lasting changes: Most feet gradually widen with age, and sometimes women's feet "grow" (because of muscle relaxation during pregnancy) after the birth of a child.
Whatever the size of your feet (at any given time) it's important to buy the right shoes -- shoes that will fit correctly and offer your feet and ankles the support they need. The following suggestions will help you become a smart shoe shopper.
Shop for shoes in the late afternoon or evening, since that's when your feet are the biggest (they swell during the day). Have the salesperson measure both feet while you're standing up, because your feet expand under the weight of your body. Carefully consider the fit and walking comfort of each pair of shoes you try and keep in mind that "size 8" in three different styles, even from the same manufacturer, can fit your feet differently.
If you have wide feet, always ask (even if the salesperson has measured your feet) if the style you've chosen comes in a wide width. Fortunately, comfortable shoes have become popular -- even stylish -- and shoe manufacturers are waking up to the fact that not everyone has a medium-width foot. Some manufacturers make shoes as wide as triple-E (on a scale of A to E, with AA being the narrowest).
There are two other contributors to your shoe "size" as well: The shape of your foot (how the shoe's "upper" conforms to your foot) and the heel height that is best for you. Because high heels shift body weight onto the front of your feet, heavy people and people with bunions, corns, hammertoes, and the like should opt for lower heels. If you have excessively pronated ("flat") feet, Achilles tendinitis, short calf muscles, or knee problems, however, shoes with a moderate heel may be more comfortable for you, because they lessen the pull on already-overstretched tendons and muscles.
Once you know your size, you can begin to select shoes that will be more comfortable. However, give your feet a break and avoid the six foot-foiling shoe styles discussed here:

• Stiletto heels, or any other heel that is higher than three inches, redistributes your body weight so that 90 percent of it is on the front of your feet. This extraordinary pressure can create calluses on the ball of the foot and increase the pain of bunions, hammertoes, and corns. It also strains the muscles and tendons in the arch of the foot. And because these heels tend to have narrow points on the ground, they make maintaining your balance quite a challenge and add to the danger of falling or turning and spraining your ankle.
• Pointy-toe shoes squeeze the toes together, causing uncomfortable calluses and corns. Pointy shoes can also put pressure on ingrown toenails and bunions and can increase the likelihood of hammertoes.
• Flats can be a problem not just for people with arch and Achilles tendon problems, but for anyone who wears them exclusively. Over time, your foot gets used to being pronated (flattened) and you may develop arch pain and tendinitis. Flats can be the staple of your shoe wardrobe, but alternate them with shoes that have a moderate heel.
• Mules generally have a high heel, and so you're likely to have all the same problems as those mentioned above, when too much pressure is placed on the front of the foot. But what distinguishes this style from others is the lack of heel support, increasing your chances of injury if your foot turns on the heel or slips out of the shoe.
• Platform shoes, popular in the 1970s, unfortunately come back in style periodically. Like high heels, they are so unstable that you can't help but periodically turn your ankle, possibly causing muscle strain, a sprain, or even a fracture.
• Old shoes with worn-down heels or traction, flattened insoles, stretched-out uppers, or unraveling stitching can cause you to slip, can strain foot muscles, and can lead to ankle sprains.

With all this in mind, now it's time to look for a new pair of shoes. Most people think that trying on shoes is about how the shoes feel on your feet. That's true. Certainly, if they don't feel good, you don't want them. But you should evaluate shoes based on several more-specific factors:

• The toe box, or area around your toes, should be roomy enough for your toes to rest comfortably. Too much room can allow feet to slide inside shoes, causing calluses and other irritation. The more common problem is that the toe box is too tight. If you have wide feet, the toe box is probably your biggest shoe problem. There should also be room in front of the toes, at least 3/8" to 1/2" between your longest toe and the front of the shoe when you are standing. And there should be room above your toes to prevent the shoe from rubbing against them, causing corns. To test the above criteria, make sure you can wiggle your toes inside the toe box when standing.
• A shoe's "upper" -- the material on the top of it -- should conform to the shape of your foot. It should provide support but also "give" when your foot moves. Look for an upper made of a material that is nonirritating and porous, allowing air into the shoe. Leather is more likely than vinyl to have these characteristics. (Polish leather shoes frequently to help the uppers stay soft and supple.)
• The shoe should provide ample cushioning to absorb shock on foot bones and muscles each time you take a step. You need such cushioning in three key areas: the arch; the front, where the ball of the foot rests; and the heel, which normally supports 25 percent of your body weight. If the insole material is also absorbent, it will help relieve heat inside shoes and prevent rashes and the spread of infection.
• Soles should provide adequate traction to prevent slipping on any surfaces where you expect to be wearing the shoes.
• Heels should ideally provide slight elevation (between 3/4" and 1") for the foot, whether there's an actual heel or just a sole that's thicker toward the back of the shoe. The counter -- the part of the shoe that curves around the back of your heel -- should be stiff enough to prevent ankle strains and sprains. The back of your foot should fit snugly into the heel of the shoe, not slide around inside it.

Two more general tips: If your two feet are different sizes, choose shoes that fit the bigger foot. (You can pad or add support inserts to the other shoe.) And never buy shoes that are too stiff or too tight with the expectation that you will "break them in." You're likely to suffer much longer than you expected.
Although all this means that you must be a sophisticated and patient shoe shopper, the good news is that many fashionable shoes currently on the market meet all of these qualifications, and many even resemble athletic shoes in design.
This is especially good news for the 59 percent of American women who wear high-heeled shoes every day. As consumers have become more health conscious, shoe manufacturers have given new attention to developing good-looking shoes (even with heels) that won't hurt your feet.
Selecting the right athletic shoe for the type of sport or exercise you enjoy is an even more specific task. Get some pointers on this process on the next page.
To learn more about treating and avoiding problems with your feet, visit:

• Everyday Foot Problems: Discover what causes some of the most commonly encountered foot problems, as well as how to treat or avoid them.
• Foot Injuries: Learn about common foot injuries and first aid techniques for feet -- from blisters to broken bones -- with this informative article.

Pet Vaccinations

It is important to vaccinate your pets.  I consider my dog to be one of my children, and he knows it.  The last thing I want for him is to be in pain.  Here are the recommended vaccinations.

From ASPCA via Petfinder:

Vaccination Guidelines

Dr. Lila Miller, DVM, ASPCA

The recognition that serious medical conditions such as certain sarcomas and auto- immune hemolytic anemia may be vaccination related have forced the veterinary profession to re-exam vaccine safety and reassess recommendations for vaccinating the average pet owner's companion animal. While the benefits of vaccination still far outweigh the risks, a careful assessment of the risk factors of each individual animal should be undertaken before deciding on a vaccination protocol. Recent investigation into the origins of recommendations for yearly vaccinations for dogs and cats pets have revealed that they may not have been based on any duration of immunity studies or other true scientific data. They are not legal requirements, and have become the subject of the hottest debates in small animal medicine today. The latest studies, although not totally conclusive, provide compelling reasons to believe that many vaccines provide immunity from disease for several years and that annual boosters are not only not necessary but may, in fact, be harmful. Many veterinarians are offering to check vaccination titers in lieu of giving the routine annual booster shot. The days of going to the veterinarian for an annual booster may soon be a thing of the past, to be replaced with an annual physical examination with appropriate vaccinations at specified intervals only.

When deciding on a vaccination schedule for your pet, you and your veterinarian may need to take the following into consideration:

1. Is the vaccine necessary?
   Is the disease found in the area, and how dangerous is the disease?
   Is the disease contagious to people?
   
2. How effective is the vaccine?
3. How safe is the vaccine?
4. What is the animal's age?
   The very young and very old are more in need of vaccination to protect against infectious diseases than adult animals.
   
5. What is the general overall health?
   Immune-compromised, debilitated, pregnant, sick, and stressed animals all present special circumstances that the veterinarian should take into consideration before vaccination
6. What is the animal's risk of exposure to the disease?
   For example, cats that stay indoors exclusively have very limited, if any, exposure to outside diseases unless the caregiver is working in a shelter or animal hospital, for example, and brings disease home on their hands or clothing. These cats may not require yearly vaccinations, except for rabies if required by local ordnances. Many ordinances require rabies every three years rather than annually.
7. What is the prevalence of the disease in general?
   Some areas never experience cases of Lyme disease or corona, so vaccination against these diseases makes little sense unless the owner travels with the pet to areas where these diseases have been found.
8. What is your pet's past vaccination history?
   Animals that have experienced vaccine reactions in the past should be handled with caution when administering booster vaccinations.
9. What is the pet's lifestyle?
   If the pet travels or has frequent close contact with other animals (groomers, kennels, obedience classes, etc), a different vaccination protocol may be necessary.

Many vaccination guidelines divide vaccinations into core and optional vaccines. Core vaccines are usually given against diseases that are high risk, highly dangerous diseases that are widely encountered and may or may not be spread to humans. In general, optional vaccines are given against diseases that may have a regional distribution, do not cause serious illness, may be encountered infrequently or in certain populations only. Optional vaccines may also be of limited effectiveness. Based on duration of immunity studies and concern about adverse vaccine reactions, the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) recommends that cats no longer be vaccinated annually as a matter of routine. AAFP recommends that kittens should be vaccinated initially with the appropriate vaccination series for their age and type of vaccine used, then a year later, then every 3 years for panleukopenia, rhinotracheitis, and calici virus. Rabies should be given initially, one year later and every 3 years with a vaccine specifically licensed for 3 years and in accordance with specific local regulations. These vaccines are considered by most veterinarians to be the core vaccinations to be given to almost all kittens and cats. . Some veterinarians may consider FeLV a core vaccine, but it is recommended that cats be tested first and the vaccine administered if they are at risk for exposure only.

Other feline optional vaccines include feline leukemia (FeLV), FIV, chlamydia, ringworm, giardia, bordetella and FIP

Due to concern about vaccine associated sarcomas, it has been recommended that vaccines be given in specific anatomic sites- rabies in the right rear leg, leukemia in the left rear leg and the trivalent panleukopenia, rhinotracheitis and calici in the right front leg. If a tumor occurs, it is easier to amputate a limb to achieve the wide excision necessary to save the cat's life than to try and resect a large area over most other parts of the body. It is also recommended that vaccine serial numbers be recorded so that reactions can be traced back to the batch of vaccine that was used.

Similar three-year guidelines have not yet been officially formulated for dogs, but many veterinarians believe that canine vaccines should also be given every three years only. The core vaccines for dogs are generally considered to be distemper, parvo, hepatitis and parainfluenza. In some areas where Leptospirosis is a common problem, the vaccine against this disease might also be considered by some to be a core vaccine. Other optional vaccines include Lyme, corona, Giardia and Bordetella/Parainfluenza for dogs that frequently board or travel around areas of dense populations of dogs (i.e. dog shows) and are subject to catch kennel cough.

Recommended Core Feline Vaccination Protocol:

Feline Panleukopenia
Feline Rhinotracheitis (Herpes)
Feline Calici
Rabies
Give initial core vaccination series to kittens, then give one year later and every three years thereafter.

Optional Feline vaccines

Feline Leukemia (FeLV)
Feline Infectious Peritonitis
Microsporum Canis (Ringworm)
Chlamydia psittaci (renamed Chlamydophila)
Giardia
Bordetella
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)
Assess risk carefully before giving these optional vaccines. The FIV vaccine is new.

Recommended Core Canine Vaccine Protocol

Canine Distemper
Canine Adenovirus (hepatitis)
Canine Parainfluenza
Canine Parvo
Rabies
Give initial vaccination series to puppies, then give one year later and every three years thereafter. Certain breeds may need to get a parvo shot more frequently- i.e. Rottweilers, Dobermans, pit bulls

Optional Canine vaccines

Canine corona
Leptospirosis
Giardia
Lyme
Parainfluenza/Bordetella
Assess risk carefully before giving these optional vaccines.

It should be remembered that each veterinarian must ultimately decide on the safest and most effective vaccination protocol to use to protect their patients against infectious diseases. It may not be the same for every animal even if the external circumstances seem similar.

Please have your pet vaccinated.